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You may have a pool/spa leak if . . . |
- You lose 1/8" of water or more in 24 hours. Perform a Bucket Test. Evaporation rates vary per area.
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You find algae forming too soon after a chemical treatment.
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You find loose or falling tiles or pool deck cracks.
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You pool/spa has settled into the ground or cracks and gaps appear in the pool shell or concrete deck.
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You find standing water, mushy spots, or uneven grass growth around the pool/spa area.
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Your automatic filter is continually releasing water.
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| If you suspect a leak; look at the following things before calling for service: |
| Is the pool leaking only with the equipment on? This may indicate a pressure side (return) leak. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the pressure side is...under pressure. This can open up small drips into spraying gushers. Check the waste or backwash line for water running all the time. One inch of your pool water can equal 500 gallons. |
| Is the pool leaking only with the equipment off? This usually indicates a suction side leak. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the suction side is under vacuum; air can be drawn in through otherwise leaking voids. You may notice air in the pump basket (if you have a clear lid), air bubbling out of the return lines or air repeatedly built up inside the filter tank. Use tape or a pencil to mark water levels. Is the pump basket lid on tight with a good, lubed o-ring?
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| Does the pool leak all the time? This does not rule out leaks in the plumbing, but turns a suspicious eye on the shell of the pool, looking for cracks in the plaster or tears in the vinyl. Look closely at the tile line, and look real closely inside of the skimmer(s). The most common leak we fix is a separation between the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool. This is easily fixed with some pool putty. If you see something that looks like a crack, drop some of your pH indicator test reagent near it with pump shut off and water still. See if the dye is sucked into the crack. Under water lights can and do leak. Especially the conduit that runs from the light niche to the junction box. Filling the opening of the conduit, in the back of the light niche with putty, silicone or caulk is a way to fix this problem. |
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Are there leaks at the equipment pad? Look closely at the filter, pump, heater and valves. Check the ground for moisture. Turn the pump on and off, looking closely for spraying water when the pump is turned off. |
| Does the water seem to stabilize at any particular level? You may be able to close the skimmer valve and allow the water level to drop below the skimmer. If it keeps going, we can rule out the skimmer (although there can always be more than one leak). The underwater light is a common leak source. If the water stabilizes, dye test around this level very carefully. Look for small debris which may have been sucked into the crack or void. This is a good indication of a leak.
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| Are there any wet areas around the pool? Take a walk around the pool's edge, and between the pool and the equipment pad. Check for wet soil and eroded areas. |
| DFW Leak Detection is happy to assist you with all your Leak Detection needs. If you have any questions or would like to set up an appointment, feel free to contact us at 214-882-4240. |
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Office:
214-882-4240 Cell: 214-882-4839 |
Over 12 Years Experience |
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